Sedona, Red Rock Country, January 2025

Contents

Arrival in Sedona
Day 1: Crescent Moon Ranch
Day 2: Little Sugarloaf and Chimney Rock
Day 3: Red Rock State Park
Day 4a: Coffeepot Trail
Day 4b: Boynton Canyon
Day 5: Soldier Pass Trail`
Day 6: Fay Canyon
Sedona Wildlife

Last year's family reunion in Zion National Park was so successful, we decided to repeat it, with some small changes. Marsha found a house for us to rent in Sedona, the heart of Arizona's Red Rock country. It is not far from Zion, though as you will see, there are some subtle differences in the geology of the areas.

The scenery north of Phoenix is not inspiring; it offers little but dry scrubland. The most interesting section was one short stretch that featured Saguaro Cacti in large numbers. One large Saguaro had even established itself in the interstate median strip.

As we approached Sedona, the scenery became much more interesting. The ubiquitous red colors, unique to the Sedona area, are the result of iron oxide particles leaching into the rocks when they were covered by an ocean millions of years ago. The paler layers are formed by a harder sandstone.

Unfortunately, the traffic became increasingly dense. It took us over half an hour to reach the center of town, where we did a little shopping. As the sun set and turned the hills even redder, we headed for the house we had rented for the week

The back yard was mostly scrub. The front was more level, but equally sparse of vegetation. The rear deck featured a hot tub, and anyone wanting to use it was invited to make use of the outdoor shower that was provided. You can see a hose hanging in the tree (inset, top right) with a nozel attached to the end of the hose.

Next morning JoAnn and Gordon rose early. The sunrise promised beautiful weather for the day, and a hot air balloon appeared over the hills. It was soon joined by others.

Gordon decided to explore the neighborhood, checking out locations nearby that might have promising trails for a hike. There were several, all of them providing beautiful scenery, and some potentially challenging hill walks.

We discovered that the biggest difficulty with most of the trails was that all available parking places would be filled quite early in the day. The first full day we were fortunate to find a place at Crescent Moon Ranch, a lovely park just outside Sedona.

The park offered access to trails where the hiking was not very difficult. To reach the trails we passed an elegant old waterwheel that had been part of a water mill. We followed the trail to Oak Creek, a small river that runs through Sedona from North to South.

Oak Creek is a beautiful river, bordered by large Sycamore trees. There was a network of trails on both sides of the river. It was not always obvious which trail to take, with several side channels running parallel to the main stream.

Alban felt inspired by one of the channels to try out his athletic skills. He took a running jump, and lept. Did he succeed? Well, it depends on one's definition of success. There was not much of a splash anyway.

A highlight of the Crescent Moon trails is the view of an iconic fetures of Sedona, Cathedral Rock. It is on the opposite side of Oak Creek from Crescent Moon Ranch, so at first it can be seen only through the trees. The view becomes clearer as one gets closer. Cathedral Rock is on the left, with a butte beside it that had no name that we could discover.

Further away from Oak Creek one has other views of Cathedral Rock, and in the other direction you can see the town itself. The paler rocks that surmount many of the hills and rocky pillars are Coconino Foundation sandstones, as are the paler layers. The rich red layers are known as the Schebly Hill Formation, much softer, but rich in iron oxide.

After our hike, we headed back to prepare for dinner. Ian was treating us at one of Sedona's best restaurants, the Village Chop House.

At some point in the preparation, Gordon discovered his wallet was missing. A thorough search failed to reveal it. It must have been lost at the Crescent Moon Ranch. In the course of worrying about the loss of cash, credit cars, and drivers license (needed to get on the plane home), we had to head off for dinner. Gordon tried to ignore the whole problem as best he could.

Next day we checked at the Ranch, with no luck. Back at the house, Gordon was trying to decide what to do next, and noticed his boots on the floor in the bedroom. Beside them was something looking much like a wallet. Guess what: It was his wallet.

Little Sugarloaf is a mountain quite close to our house, with less than a two mile drive to the trailhead. Next morning we made sure everyone was up early enough for us to find a parking place, and set off to explore the trail. At first the path made for fairly easy going, although the further we went the steeper the trail became.

As we walked uphill we got a view of neighboring mountains. Then as we reached the top of a rise, we were treated to a delightful view of the scenery to the north, across a wide valley.

Some of the mountains we saw had a mesa-like structure, similar to that we saw in and near Zion Park. The mesas make for an interesting contrast with the pillars created by other mountains to the north. Note the similarity to Chimney Rock, atop the summit of Little Sugarloaf. These pillars are mostly the result of vertical faults that have developed in the rocks since they were laid down.

Our original goal had been to take a side trail that led to the top of Chimney Rock. However, what had been simply a steep, difficult climb was now becoming a scramble. Then we met another hiker coming down who was having great difficulty maintaining his footing. We decided that hard as the climb was becoming, the descent was going to be much worse, so we came back to the main trail. Wisely, JoAnn had realized right away that her joints would be much happier if she avoided anything so strenuous. She was happily waiting for us.

After returning to the trailhead, we tok a drive through some of the nearby streets. It was surprising in some ways to see how close the mountains came to the town's residential areas, Here, for example, is Thunder Mountain, the large mountain behind Little Sugarloaf. You can see houses at the foot of the mountain on the right. The pillars above the houses are the site for the Coffeepot trail that we would explore on Day 4.

We drove by the Coffeepot trailhead to check it out. You can see how close to the road Thunder Mountain comes. By the way, Coffeepot Rock is the pillar on the far right (you will see why it has that name on Day 4).

Today we were again late getting started, so there was no parking available at most hiking locations. We decided therefore to head for Red Rock State Park, an Arizona state park not far from Crescent Moon Ranch.

Being situated along Oak Creek, this park also offered excellent views of Cathedral Rock. A visitors center was built into one of the hillsides. The roof of the center provided good views of the surrounding hills and previews of the trails.

From the visitors center a trail led across a bridge, with views of Oak Creek upstream to grassy areas and downstream to denser vegetation. On the far side of the creek was a group of Cottonwood trees, including one large, impressive Fremont Cottonwood.

We took the main trail, pausing to investigate items of interest along the way, then took a side trail. This led up a steep hill to a curious structure, the "House of Appache Fire". This pueblo-style building is in a bad state of disrepair, and closed to the public. It had been built by a retired airline executive and his wife, and no-one is sure why they gave it the unusal name. It may have had something to do with the camp fires of Apache construction workers when the house was built.

The house is built at the edge of a cliff that drops off to Oak Creek. From the top of the hill one has another excellent view of Cathedral Rock, as well as views of the surrounding hills and valleys in all directions.

We took a few minutes to take portraits. Alban decided he preferred to have one of the picturesque Cedar trees as a setting, arranged with Cathedral Rock in the background.

The descent from the hill was at first quite easy, compared with the way up. The trail soon grew steeper however, and Alban gave JoAnn a helping hand.

As we reached the bottom of the cliff we could look back up at the House of Apache Fire. We ended up back at the bridge crossing Oak Creek.

We drove into Sedona for lunch (at a Thai restaurant that was pretty good). Then we decided to return to the park and explore some more of the trails.

This time we took a trail that followed Oak Creek downstream for a mile or so, through a section of birch trees. The trail crossed a broad expanse of grassland below the cliff where the House of Apache Fire was built.

The trail then ran alongside a section of Oak Creek that divided into several side channels, interspersed with small ponds and patches of marshy ground. Some of the rocks here were an especially rich shade of red.

The trail ended when space between the cliff on one side and the creek on the other side grew very narrow, but with fascinating old trees beside the trail. We turned around at that point and headed back whence we had come.

Today JoAnn and Gordon were up early, so we took the opportunity to explore Coffeepot Trail, which we had noted earlier in the week. We were able to park at the trailhead, and set off up the trail. The trail was rocky, but not very steep at first. Soon though the incline became tougher, and a few rest stops were helpful.

JoAnn especially found the footing to be difficult in places, and if she did not take it carefully, one step at a time, she felt unstable.

Eventually we reached the crest of a hill, with a perfect view of Coffepot Rock at the end of a line of pillars. Supposedly the rock has the shape of an old fashioned coffee pot, with the spout at the upper right. Beyond Coffeepot Rock is a valley where Soldiers Pass trail, our hike for tomorrow, is located.

At that point we met another couple coming down the hill to our right. They seemed surprised that a couple of eighty-year-olds would be so active, but they recommended we take the trail they had come down. This trail, they said, led to some beautiful views.

It was an even steeper climb, and JoAnn decided she would not continue to the top. Gordon did go further, and was rewarded with excellent views of Little Sugarloaf and Chimney Rock to the west, and a panorama of Sedona to the south.

We returned to the trailhead (with one or two worrisome moments when we were not sure which way to go), and got back home in time for lunch.

After lunch we decided to find another trail where there might be available parking. We opted for Boynton Canyon, a wilderness area a few miles north of our house.

As we approached the location of the trailhead and parking area, we saw an intriguing hillside that had been carved into patterns by the wind and rains. The cliff face reminded us of cliff tombs that we had seen in Turkey, created by Lycian peoples 1,400 years BC, and and the more recent Dalyan people.

After reaching the trail itself we saw another cliff face that looked as if it had been carved intentionally. As far as we know the cutouts were not the result of human activity.

The remainder of our time spent visiting the trail provided perhaps the most interesting sights we encountered in our limited visit to Sedona. No wonder it was popular with hikers who wanted to document their being there. People were lining up near the sign to take their turn in creating a record of their presence.

As we proceeded along the valley, we saw more fadcinating carvings - Rock buildings on the top of a cliff, different kinds of cutouts into the side of a cliff, and a solitary pillar that looked like part of a wall.

Another pillar stood out dramatically. The erosion had left a top for the pillar that resembled a strange face. There was an even more grotesque carving nearby where the erosion had left strange faces that reminded us of human creations, this time paintings of rock patterns by Salvador Dali we had seen in his house in Figueres.

All these creations probably provided more interesting structures per mile than any of the other trails where we hiked, though we did enjoy other interesting sights during the next two days.

Today we were able to visit a trail for which parking was not a concern. A shuttle bus took us from a large parking area directly to the trailhead. The Soldier Pass Trail takes a hiker past several places of interest; we had time to visit only a few.

There were a few difficult sections early on. Steps had been installed in some cases, but there was one area, a deep ditch called Soldier Wash, where some hikers needed assistance to cross. After that, sections of flat rocks made things easier.

We had seen the pillars in the background the day before, from the far side. The pillar on the left is Coffeepot Rock. On the other side of the trail from Coffeepot were the two oddly shaped hills we had seen at the trailhead.

We passed one area where a patch of succulents was unusually dense. A little further on we came to the site of rock slides, in the middle of which was a deep sinkhole, Devil's Kitchen. This could be hazardous if one approached too close.

At that point the trail widened, with views of Thunder Mountain and Sugarloaf to the West. To the East was a rock outcroppinig with interesting shapes. The trail passed through a section of shrubs and small trees, with side valleys to the East.

We arrived then at one of the highlights of the trail, the Seven Sacred Pools. Just what makes them sacred is not clear; it was probably a publicity gimmick. The pools occupy the upper part of a steep valley. Overflow from the pools discharges into the ravine. Along the sides of the ravine, gnarled cedar trees manage to find places to root.

While Marsha, Ian, and Alban opted to explore the trail further, JoAnn decided that this was an ideal place to take it easy. Many other hikers found it a perfect location for a break as well. Gordon meanwhile had a project of his own to pursue. For the duration of our time at the Seven Pools, something or someone had been producing soft melodies that could be heard around the rocks. What was it? A person? A bird? Boom-box?

Gordon scrambled around to the far side of the ravine, trying to locate the source. It was a good location for taking photos of the area at the top of the pools, but the source of the music was well hidden in the trees. Eventually he saw at the bottom of the ravine what he identified as a "Red breasted, white crested warbler", playing flute or recorder, sounding like Carlos Nakai. A suitable adornment, we suppose, for a location that may or may not be sacred in some way.

Marsha, Ian, and Alban had to return to Madison a day before JoAnn and Gordon left. JoAnn decided to start packing, so Gordon took off by himself for one more hike. He headed for Fay Canyon, not far from Boynton Canyon, which we had visited on Day 4.

Surprisingly, there were few people using the trail that morning. There was hardly any vehicle at the parking lot, and across from the parking was an empty trailhead.

The cliff marked the west wall of the canyon. Gordon set off on what looked like a vacant trail. The first part of the trail was very easy; so easy in fact that Gordon was sorry he had not persuaded JoAnn to come along. The canyon walls on the west side and the east side offered the usual interesting shapes.

After a litle over half a mile, the trail began to get a somewhat more difficult. Somewhere nearby there was supposed to be a side trail that led to an attractive archway, visible from the main trail, set into the east wall. Unfortunately, the only thing that looked like a side trail led after a while to an almost impassable pile of rocks, which Gordon decided was not worth risking a limb over.

The side walls of the canyon began to exhibit interesting layering, until the end of the canyon came in site. The end consisted of a very large pile of rocks that effectively blocked further progress, surmounted by one of the most fascinating rock faces (i.e., faces in the rock), that Gordon had seen this week. He regrets that the other members of the family missed it.

At the bottom of the rock pile Gordon ran into two more hikers. That was five altogether he had met on the outgoing trail. He did encounter several more on the return trip; presumably the crowds were beginning to gather then. And as he chatted with the couple, more started to appear from the other side of the rock pile.

Aha, so there is more to be seen up there! One member of the couple decided to climb the rock pile and find out. Gordon, of course, went with him. The other member of the couple decided she would stay where she was.

As they neared the base of the face sculpture, Gordon decided he did not need to go further. His climbing friend took a photo for the record. Gordon was happy to sit and enjoy the view back down the canyon. A weak sun was breaking through the clouds to illuminate the whole valley. It was a beautiful ending to our trip.

In a location like Sedona, there are bound to be plenty of wild animals. We enjoyed seeing examples of two species in particular, one of which we were expectng, the other being quite a surprise.

These days deer of one sort or another can be seen almost anywhere, and Sedona is no exception. Not counting the birds, the species most likley to be seen is the Mule Deer, which seemed to be quite prolific in Red Rock State Park.

Later we spotted a large buck beside Oak Creek. He was not unduly bothered by our presence, but had a good sense of camouflage when deciding where to stand.

There was one variety of wildlife, quite common in Sedona and surrounding areas, that we did not expect to encounter. Early one morning, Gordon was driving through a residential area, and a strange animal crossed the street in front of his car. He took a photo through the windscreen, since he did not want to scare it away.

Right away, it was evident that the caution was unnecessary. Two more of these animals appeared. More and more of them strolled by, at least a dozen, and they were not bothered by a human pointing a camera at them.

They turned out to be a group* (a herd? a gathering?) of Javelinas, or Collared Pecarries. They are common to the area, and we did encounter s few more during the time we were there.

Coyotes and bobcats can also be seen in the red rock area, although we did not encounter any. However, if we were not paying attention, we might think we see what appears at first to be some other unusual animal taking a rest beside the trail. If you are not sure what it is, think "dead grass". As clumps of it fall over, it does tend to take the shape of something living. We passed by several on our hikes.

* It turns out that the correct word is "squadron" (thanks to Mary Rosenberg)

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