Walking the South Downs Way, May 2017

Contents

The South Downs Way
History of the Region
Agriculure and Livestock
The Walk, Day by Day

Two years ago Gordon and Alan completed the Coast to Coast walk, almost 200 miles across northern England (see the account in a separate window). Last year they walked 100 miles along the Cotswold Way ( see the account here). This year they settled for 80 miles of the South Downs Way. Is this what it means to grow older?

The South Downs (from Old English dûne, "off the hill") are a range of chalk hills stretching across south-east England, from Winchester to Eastbourne. Together with the North Downs, they form a V-shaped group of hills between London and the south coast.

The South Downs Way (in red on the previous map) is a path that follows the ridge of the South Downs. From the path one has magnificent views over the Weald and the North Downs. The route originally ran from Buriton to Eastbourne, but several years ago the start was pushed back 20 miles to Winchester. It was the original route that we completed this year though.

With the exception of an occasional farm house, there is no habitation along the way. From the ridge one looks down on towns, on villages, and on farm houses. From time to time one gets a distant view of stately old mansions, and we saw a few reminders of more modern times.

Frequently one has views across the Weald to the North Downs, the northern hills gradually receding as the walker proceeds east.

The entire route runs through a national park. It is remarkable that in the most populated region of England so much countryside can be preserved, largely unspoiled. Of course, things are not perfect. It seems that electricity pylons have to be constructed through open fields, or placed wherever there is a lovely view. And anywhere there is a convenient hilltop someone will erect antennas.

The relentless need for energy, even "clean" energy, extracts its costs. We encountered this construction associated with an offshore wind farm. Meanwhile, old sources of energy have been converted to other uses. This old windmill has lost its operating mechanism, and is now a private residence.

Most of the trail consists of bridle ways, made up of sharp-edged flint stones. This may be fine for horses and their canine companions, for bikers, or even for runners, but it can be hard on the feet for walkers. As a route for a long walk, the geography presents another disadvantage. To find lodgings or meals one must climb down from ridge, then climb up again next morning to continue the walk.

We encountered one other problem. On several sections there is very little shade. We abandoned the Downs one hot afternoon and followed a shadier path below the hills. Unfortunately, here the peace and quiet of the countryside was briefly disturbed by loud music. Preparations were underway for a rock concert next day.

People have been using the paths and tracks of the South Downs for some 8,000 years. They were a safer and dryer alternative to routes through the lowlands. Permanent occupation in the area began in the Neolithic era. Later the inhabitants built tumuli and hill forts. While some of the tumuli are hard to see, the Devil's Jumps are most impressive. They are five large Bronze Age barrows, two of which contained human remains, the others apparently being empty.

The Romans left their mark on the area. For a mile or two the route follows Stane Street, the Roman road from London to Chichester. The central 'Agger' was probably paved with large flint nodules or sandstone. then surfaced with smaller stones. Although now largely covered over, the basic flints are undoubtedly those put there by the Roman engineers.

Flint is a very hard rock, common throughout Sussex, so it has often been used for construction. In Buriton we noticed a style of building that seems to be unique to Sussex, and which we later saw almost everywhere - walls constructed from flint, with bricks edging the corners and defining door and window frames. This use of brick for edging is a fairly recent innovation.

We saw other examples in Cocking. This house is part of the Cowdray estate. Viscount Cowdray was a 19th century industrialist and major landowner. The estate still owns much of the village property. We saw the brilliant yellow paint on several buildings.

The house where we stayed in Cocking was also part of the Cowdray estate. Our hosts were tenants, not owners. Fortunately, the building did not have the same yellow trim as others. Perhaps the exception was granted because the walls were not constructed from flint, perhaps because it was a Tudor era building from the 15th century.

An interesting house we came across was the Stone House in Steyning. The lower part was built of flint around 1320; the Elizabethan upper story was added some 200 years later. Saxon coins found in the basement suggest it might have been the site of an early mint.

Much of the history of the region is reflected in the churches. Saint Catherine of Siena in Cocking is an example. The oldest parts of the church date from the 11th century, although most of the church is 12th to 14th centuries. A wooden church may have been built in Cocking around 680. Strangely, the church had no known dedication until very recently. In 2007 the congregation agreed to dedicate it to the saint whose name is engraved on one of the bells.

Saint Mary's church in Washington dates from 1146 or earlier, although the present building was heavily restored in 1866. The flint walls look older, thanks to a patina of lichens and moss.

The Church of the Transfiguration in Pyecombe is especially interesting. The entrance to the church is a tapsel gate, which swings open on its centre. Gordon is holding (in his left hand!) one of the shepherds' crooks for which Pyecombe was once famous. Inside the church is one of only three lead fonts in Sussex.

In the village of Southease, St Peter's church has an unusual round tower, more castle-like than church-like. The first mention of this church is from 966. The church building is not that old, but it contains interesting remnants of 13th century wall paintings.

The oldest building we stayed at during our walk was the Star Inn in Alfriston. It dates from the 13th century, and is one of the oldest inns in England. The lounge at the inn was a comfortable place to relax.

One other place we stayed is worth noting. The Berkeley House in Lewes was converted from a former town council building. Our bathroom had been part of the safe where city records were stored, and the entrance to the bathroom was the safe door.

Recent history as well as ancient history is reflected in the area. The south coast was heavily involved in World War II. One reminder of this time was a concrete road that must have been built to facilitate troop movements. We also passed a small memorial to a downed German pilot. We thought it odd that a memorial to an enemy pilot be erected during the war, but found out that it was created later by Captain Ostermann's family.

Near the Ostermann memorial we passed Monkton House, mysterious and well protected, with the sound of peacocks heard through the woods. Local gossip has it being a 'safe house' during the cold war. At that time it was thought that remote country houses (particularly with peacocks) were used to hide foreign agents. Perhaps the idea came from John LeCarré's novels!

In Eastbourne there is another historical marker of some interest. A monument near the pier features a soldier striking an arrogant pose. Alan and Gordon simultaneously thought, "It's Flashman!" For readers unfamiliar with the name, Flashman is the cowardly hero (or anti-hero) in novels by George MacDonald Fraser. In fact, the statue memorializes troops of the Bengal Lancers.

Much of the South Downs Way passes through farm land. We encountered a variety of livestock: a cow admiring the view, a large herd of cattle, a cow that was missing part of its horns, and a calf with an unusual marking.

Walkers are always a little anxious about bulls. This one was separated from us by a sturdy fence, but this bull, protecting his herd at a watering hole, was not. Especial concerns were raised when, in order to pass by a young calf, we needed to walk close to daddy.

Unlike our trip across the Cotswolds, we did not meet many horses or their riders. This horse, picking its way across a field, was one of the few. Perhaps it is a less affluent region. Occasionally we passed grazing horses in a field, and one day we passed by a field of Shetland ponies.

Near Pyecombe we noticed a large equestrian centre on the edge of town. It turned out to be Brendon, a large breeding farm and training facility. Their signs were amusing, but when we passed no horses were in sight.

Of course we met sheep galore. This flock was gathered at a dew pond. Dew ponds were created a few hundred years ago to store rain water (not dew) on top of dry ridges. Later we encountered cattle at anorher dew pond.

It was well into lambing season. As we approached one flock, a ewe herded her offspring to a safe spot. One day we were accosted by a sheep stampede - a flock of sheep and lambs rushing for the security of their pen.

Where livestock were missing, fields were devoted to an assortment of crops. On a windy day the wheat fields created interesting effects. At one point a small strip of land, probably alfalfa, suggested a Mondrian-like pattern.

Several wheat fields exhibited interesting geometric patterns too, created, presumably, by farm equipment.

Other patterns could be seen in hedges separating the fields. Occasional groups of poppies broke up the neat symmetry.

Whether or not the walk was any easier than our previous walks is hard to say, since both of us were troubled by colds for part of the time. A detailed map of our route is shown in a separate window. Here's a day-by-day summary.

After separate vacations with our wives, we met at Waterloo Station in London, and took a train to Petersfield. We stayed that night at the Village Inn in Buriton, an interesting building dating from the 15th century. It was a good place to relax prior to our adventure.

The next morning we set off with confidence. After a short climb to reach the South Downs Way, the route continued along shady lanes and roads lined with copper beeches. The weather was excellent, even a little too warm.

After a mile or so we climbed Harting Hill, and enjoyed the fine view. Below the ridge is the village of South Harting.

After 5 miles we came to a choice point. The official route turns right, and is quite flat. Ahead is a short cut, a steep climb to the top of Beacon Hill. Of course, we took the short cut (it saved over a mile), and after a short struggle reached the top. From here was a fine view of the route ahead. After a brief interlude with a playful dog, our walk continued.

Eventually we reached Cocking Down, with a view to the village of Cocking and our lodgings for the night. We arrived too early to check in, so hoped to get a beer at the local pub. It was closed, but in a remarkable act of generosity the owner of a nearby shop gave us a couple of beers ("I don't drink 'em, and I'm not allowed to sell 'em"). He then pointed us to a lovely spot where we could relax and recover.

The next morning we had a little time to explore Cocking. The most well known resident of the village is the sculptor Philip Jackson. His garden is next to the village church, so from the graveyard one has a good view of some of his work.

Behind our lodgings was another of his creations. He had asked residents of the village to create plasticene representations of events from village history, and from these he had cast the Cocking History Column. The inset is one example of the items created by villagers.

We took the path through woods above Cocking, and continued on towards Bignor hill (with the police antennas). We found a shady spot to take a break, and watched others climbing the hill behind us. The route flattened out and passed along a row of hawthornes in bloom.

Near Amberley we reached the valley of the River Arun. By now it was getting quite warm. We met two exhausted hikers - even their dog looked tired. After a descent from the ridge we came to the River Arun, took a footbridge across, and reached the outskirts of Amberley.

We stopped for a brief respite at the local pub, then continued on to our lodgings for the night, a converted 200 year old dairy barn.

At breakfast we met Richard of Footprints, the company we had contracted with to handle our walk. He offered a very helpful tip that we took advantage of later - see below. We left the barn and climbed back to the South Downs. As soon as we left Amberley it became clear that the day would be very warm.

One of the steepest climbs we encountered was the path to Amberley mount. We were happy to stop for a break when we got to the top. On the crest of the hill is Rackham Bank, a boundary marker built from local chalk in Neolithic times. Originally it would have been a brilliant white. From Rackham Bank defenders would have had a fine view of anyone encroaching.

The route continued across farm land. It was breakfast time for the cattle. Later we came across two or three large mounds of cattle byproducts.

An alternative route for the day leads to a bridge over A24. It bypasses a tricky crossing of a dangerous road, and takes walkers to the town of Washington.

Richard had suggested take an alternate, shadier route once we reached Washington, a route that turned out to save over a mile of walking. The heat and lack of shade were becoming oppressive, so it was an easy decision. We opted for the low road that ran parallel to the South Downs.

Instead of the sharp flints on the standard route we enjoyed walking across a stretch of meadows. We had to surmount a stile to cross a ploughed field, but we could enjoy the South Downs from below for a change. The alternative route took us past farms and an interesting barn yard, and by a group of pheasants in a field.

The route was quiet enough it was easy to forget we were now on public roads. Close to Steyning we encountered more traffic than we were used to. The narrow road forced us to take evasive action on a couple of occasions, but we reached Steyning safely.

Upon leaving Steyning we enjoyed a flat section of a mile or two along the Adur river. As we approached the South Downs it began to look as if our stretch of fine weather might be ending.

We passed a chalk pit that appeared not to be used any more. Today was the start of a bank holiday weekend, so in spite of the weather, we encountered more walkers and bikers than we had done previously.

Not all of the holiday makers were enjoying themselves. A steep gully ran down from the ridge. At the bottom of the gully we noticed a small truck that must have ventured down, and been unable to get back up.

The weather continued to be rather hazy. We were now coming closer to the south coast. Through the haze we caught a glimpse of Brighton and the sea.

The further we walked the busier the trail became. We were approaching the Devil's Dyke, a popular restaurant and lookout point that can be reached by road. Before we got there the fog rolled in, quite spoiling the view, although it did not stop some other walkers from enjoying their picnic.

After leaving the Devil's Dyke behind, the weather improved. The trail now was rather wild and wind swept, but we stopped to admire the view which at this point was quite dramatic.

We reached Pyecombe in good time. Our lodgings that evening were in Lewes, ten miles away, so a taxi had been contracted to take us there. We stopped at the Plough Inn in Pyecombe, where the taxi picked us up.

Next morning the taxi took us back to Pyecombe, and we continued where we had left off, walking through the fields east of Pyecombe. Perhaps because of the bank holiday weekend, the trails here were very busy.

Along the way we had our first glimpse of cliffs that line the coast of the English Channel. We would reach them two days later. We also passed by Falmer stadium, a major site for sporting events.

Later that morning, as the weather grew warmer, we met a large group of walkers, many looking distinctly weary. It turned out to be a charity walk from London to Brighton. Some of the walkers seemed to be in need of charitable assistance themselves. They had started the previous morning, and were now more than 80 kilometers into their 100 kilometer walk.

We took a bridge across the A27 highway, climbed up through the woods, and after passing by a valley used by paragliders we arrived at the Newmarket Inn outside Lewes. There a taxi collected us and delivered us once again to our lodgings.

Next morning was hazy, and rain threatened. The taxi took us back to the Newmarket Inn. As we climbed back up to the South Downs Lewes receded into the mist. In spite of the low clouds we had a good view of an old windmill just south of the town - recently rebuilt and operating for the first time in 100 years. Below the ridge we could see the suburb of Kingston.

The route drops steeply down to the valley of the River Ouse. We crossed the river to reach the pretty village of Southease. A steep climb back to the ridge, and we could look back on the river valley.

Prior to today we had enjoyed five days of dry weather. The forecast predicted that our streak of good luck was over. When we saw heavy clouds gathering over the River Ouse and felt a few drops of rain, we assumed the forecast was correct. Surprisingly, no further rain materialized for the duration of our walk.

We continued to climb up to Firle beacon, then as we came down we encountered a surprise. A cairn and sign post marked the point at which we officially crossed from the Western Hemisphere to the Eastern Hemisphere: the Greenwich Meridian, or zero degrees longitude.

Shortly after this we reached the valley of the Cuckmere river, which set us up for the drama of the final day.

The South Downs Way, crossed from west to east, saves the best for last. The most dramatic scenery is found as one approaches Eastbourne.

First though we explored Alfriston a little. It's a lovely old town that has not adapted itself to the traffic congestion that modern life produces.

The weather this morning was rather gloomy - clouds and a thick mist. We followed the Cuckmere river for a few miles, admired the Cuckmere swans, and were amused by the cattle taking it easy.

Near Litlington the route passes through the woods and reaches the lovely village of West Dean. From there one has to climb more than hundred steps to reach the top of a steep hill.

Upon reaching the top one comes to an overview which, on a good day, provides a spectacular view of the Cuckmere River. This day, though, the mist limited the visibility. Even so, the meandering river carved interesting patterns through the fields.

We followed the river to the small town of Exceat, where it reaches the English Channel. Here the Cuckmere ends in a broad estuary.

This is where the most spectacular scenery of the whole walk begins. There are amazing views of the Seven Sisters, a series of chalk cliffs along the coast. From time to time one can also look back towards Seaford Head.

Of course, walking along the cliff top can be a little hazardous. We encountered several warnings of what might happen to the unwary. The final warning was apparently a memorial to those who had ignored the others.

For several miles we felt a tension between these warnings and the urge to get closer to the edge. Tantalizing views of the sisters and the rocks below them demand a closer view.

Eventually we reached Birling Gap, where a road, parking lot, and tea shop produce a significant increase in the crowds. Here we were reminded that gloomy weather never prevents the English from enjoying their seaside holiday.

From Birling Gap we took one last view backwards at the Seven Sisters, in clouds and mist, before stopping in at the tea shop for a beer. While we enjoyed the beer, a remarkable change took place. Here is the same view when we emerged.

From Birling Gap it was a gentle climb to the top of Beachy Head. The crowds thinned out a lot, although we passed a group of youngsters apparently practicing for a Darwin Award.

We noticed the different geological formations created by the chalk cliffs. Looking back we had views of the Seven Sisters. To the north there are also fine view of the countryside.

We passed the Belle Tout lighthouse, which had been decommisioned over 100 years ago, and is now a bed and breakfast. After the Belle Tout light was taken out of service, it was replaced by the Beachy Head light, built on the rocks at the foot of the cliff, where it turned out to be more visible to ships at sea. There are no longer resident lighthouse keepers. The lighthouse (here seen from above) was fully automated in 1983.

From Beachy Head it is a short walk along the coast to Eastbourne. The South Downs Way officially ends at that point, although we were still over a mile from our final lodgings.

We followed the beach front for a while, and emerged at the most elegant part of town. The Eastbourne pier made a suitable marker for the real end of the walk.

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