Return to Malta

Situated in the middle of the Mediterrranean, with a number of magnificant harbors, Malta has a strategic significance that has been recognized by almost every group of people that has seen the island.

Some 7,000 years ago neolithic tribes arrived from the north, and built stone temples that are now among the oldest free-standing monuments in the world.

Temples in Tarxien have been extensively restored, but still give one a feeling for their grandeur. Decorative motifs suggest connections with other European civilizations.

The island was occupied by the Phoenicians, from whom the Maltese language probably derives. The Romans gained control after the Punic wars, and used the island mostly as a granary. They built a few elaborate villas with beautiful mosaics.

In turn the island was conquered by Arabs in 870 CE. TheArab influence can still be seen in the closed balconies common in older parts of cities.

The Arabs built Mdina as their capital, on a hill in the center of the island. One enters the city by narrow gates, to find quiet streets with mysterious doorways that offer no hints of what lies within.

In 1091 theNormans took control of Malta. Remnants of Norman architecture can be seen here in Mdina, next to more recent buildings.

Control of Malta passed from one ruling dynasty to another, until in 1530 the island was handed over to the Knights of St. John, after their expulsion from Rhodes. Under the Knights, architecture took on a strong baroque influence. Constant attacks from the sea by Turkish forces also prompted them to build powerful fortifications.

The Knights built their own capital city, Valletta, partly for protection against invasion, and partly for displaying their affluence.

One enters the city through the Floriana archway. The visitor then encounters the imposing city walls, now an attractive garden that offers great views of the large harbor.

Many of the city streets are narrow, and vehicle traffic is limited by the many steps.

Although a cathedral existed already in Mdina, the Knights wanted their own, which was designated a co-cathedral. Although the outside is quite plain, the interior is richly ornamented.

On the other side of the harbor are the towns of Senglea and Vittoriosa, which predate Valletta by several hundred years, and are now elegant resorts.

A British influence has been strong ever since the Napoleonic wars. Its warm, sunny climate made it attractive to people like Gordon's parents, who lived on Malta for about eight years, until 1976. We visited them in 1969, and again in 1973. The existence of a Grand Circle tour (see Grand Circle website) offered a great excuse to re-visit the place.

So, with the aid of our local guide Helenja, we came to see how things had changed in the last 25 years.

Malta is a rocky island. The countryside is dotted with small fields surrrounded by stone walls.

Churches are found everywhere. In the large cities, some churches boast elaborate clocks on their facade. Even in small towns the churches can be quite dramatic. They often display two clocks, one of which shows the wrong time - to confuse the devil!

The dominant color in Malta is a soft yellow. Almost everything is built from the limestone obtained from quarries that dot the island. One such quarry, no longer used, has been turned into a museum that shows how the building industry developed over the years.

Nightlife is centered in the towns of Paceville and Saint Julians, where our hotel was located. Here can be found one of the few beaches on the island, always crowded.

Here also is one place where the color and architectual harmony of the island is disrupted by an ugly Hilton hotel. One center of entertainment, the casino, is rather more in keeping with its setting.

The sea is never far away. The island boasts numerous lovely harbors, some very simple, others filled with expensive yachts.

One of the most beautiful spots on the island is the Blue Grotto, a popular site for tourists to visit

Fishing is still a major industry. The Maltese fishing boat is easily recognized, with distinctive colors and the "eye of Horus" on the bow.

The whole family may be employed in tending the nets. Even the family dog gets into the act. After a few minutes of vigorous barking, this one managed to catch a large hermit crab and drag it to shore.

May is a beautiful time of the year. Wildflowers grow in profusion, often in unlikely places such as city walls. Vegetation emerges from the rocks that make up ancient temples. The ubiquitous prickly pear was actually introduced by the Spanish from Mexico, but is seen everywhere.

Many homes and gardens display bouganvilla. City fortifications have been converted into parks and gardens. This magnificant fig tree grows in the botanical garden.

Wildlife is not plentiful. One reason may be the inclination of the Maltese to hunt birds. These strange concrete contraptions are used to set up bird cages that attract wild birds within range of the hunter.

The most abundant animal on the island is the cat, most of them apparently well fed, like this one that reminded us of Sheba. The Maltese are also very fond of their horses, typically used for city tours.

Marsaskala is the small town where Gordon's parents lived. We took a bus ride to get there. Malta is well served by its bus sytem Some of the buses are quite old, but all are in good condition. Some drivers install shrines at the front of the bus, probably a wise move in a country where driving can be pretty hazardous.

Marsaskala used to be a small fishing village. Gordon's parents lived in a flat overlooking the harbor. In the last 25 years, however, development has changed the character of the town - the buildings behind the flat are all new. We concluded that the national bird of Malta must be the crane!

After a coffee in one of the harbor-front cafes, we set off on a hike over the hill to the next town. The walk took us by a rough trail beside walled fields, leading to the next bay, and then along the ocean front.

At one point we encountered a wall covered with snails. Later that night we ordered escargots with dinner. Instead of the six or eight we expected, the waiter brought a plate mounded with snails - they looked rather familiar. We could not finish them.

Eventually we reached the town of Marsaxlokk, another delightful fishing town. Oddly, the view from the harbor is dominated by Malta's busy freeport and all its associated commercial shipping

In addition to the main island, the Republic of Malta includes several others. Most are small and inconsequential. Comino claims a year round population of approximately three, although in summer the number swells to several hundred. The island of Gozo, however, is quite important.

Gozo is more rural than the main island. The vegetation also tends to be lusher. The island contains several flat-top hills, so the overall impression is of beautiful vistas. As on the main island, churches are the dominant architectual feature.

Gozo is closer to Sicily than the main island. The original inhabitants reached Gozo first, so its temples are older by 1,000 years or more.

The capital of Gozo is Victoria, also known by its Arabic name, Rabat. The cathedral sports a tall belltower. The bell was ringing when this photo was taken - we are not sure what role was played by the two fellows sitting in the tower.

From the walls of Victoria one has a magnificant view of most of the island.

Gozo has its own version of a blue grotto, the Azure Window. One can take a boat trip through a gap in a limestone cliff to obtain a spectacular view of the Window itself, and of other interesting patterns in the cliff face

After six days we left Malta for Sicily. Our adventures there are the topic for a separate travelogue.

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