Moroccan Adventure

Contents

An Introduction to Morocco
Adventures in Fes el Bali
Weavers, Potters, and Carpet Salesmen
Lunch Break
Musical Interlude
Day Trips from Fes
Fes to Marrakech
Marrakech: The Elegant Side
Marrakech Medina
Amazigh (Berber) sites, Ancient and Modern
More on the Ancient and the Modern
Casablanca, and Beyond

This was a new year for Pitz travels: A new continent, a new experience, a new adventure. After our successful trip with Road Scholar last year, we opted for their tour of Morocco this time. The tour was indeed something new, it was something different, and it was occasionally unexpected.

We flew into Rabat, the capital of Morocco, and there we began to appreciate the blend of ancient and modern. The Casbah, the old fortified part of the city, serves now as a park where one can relax. The highway was in excellent condition, but more traditional forms of locomotion were still common. In a roadside park we were approached by these young boys riding donkeys.

Rabat is the principal residence of the king. This has an impact on the character of the city. For example, displays of Moroccan flags were common.

The royal palace is protected every 50 yards or so by palace guards. Other signs of law and order were evident, such as a policeman, strategically posed in front of a billboard announcing local progress.

We did not spend much time in Rabat. We gathered with other members of the tour group at the Center for Cross Cultural Learning. Here our tour guide Rachid provided an overview of upcoming events. We then left to begin the tour proper.

After a three hour bus ride we arrived in Fes, where we stayed for the next five nights. The journey gave us a feeling for the countryside in this part of Morocco.

Fes is now the third largest city in Morocco, although for a brief time in the 12th century it may have been the largest city in the world. For many years after its founding it was a center for scientific and religious study.

We stayed at a modern but elegant hotel, Les Mérinides, set on a hill on the edge of town, with great views in all directions. The hotel is named after the Marinid dynasty, which established its capital in Fes, and ruled Morocco from the mid-13th to the mid-15th century.

The hotel has been built adjacent to the Marinid Tombs, constructed during the 14th century. Their connection with the Marinid dynasty is uncertain, but they sit atop a hill with a great view, and have a delightfully mysterious air to them.

Fes is a very old city, and its age is often quite evident. For example, house repairs on old buildings can be tricky. In spite of its age, though, a serious effort is made to keep the city clean and attractive. Our local guide Ahmed pointed out that the Arabic script on the wall, accompanying the graffiti, is a kind of "Keep Fes Beautiful" exhortation.

The most interesting part of Fes is the medina, Fes el Bali, the old walled section of the town. The wall is pierced by a number of gates, one of the best known being the Blue Gate. The original gate dates back to the 12th century, but the modern version was actually built by the French in 1913.

The interior of the medina consists of a maze of narrow alleys and crowded streets. Without a guide, it is impossible not to get lost, and even with a guide there is a certain loss of reality, a sense that one has been cast back several hundred years in time.

One must take great care navigating the narrow alleys. It's too easy to be trampled by mules or donkeys. Or to collide with someone heading for the leather market, perhaps looking like a creature from another world.

The leather market is a fascinating area, a busy place where tourists wielding cameras are not exactly welcome (unless, that is, they plan to buy a goat hide to turn into a jacket). Here vendors of hides hustle buyers, offer their goods for sale, and haggle over the price.

Many other businesses follow one after another: Vendors of pottery and other household objects, or craftsmen working in wood or other materials. We met a tailor measuring thread by stretching it between anchors many meters apart along the alley.

One of the few craftsmen who welcomed tourists stopping in to admire his work and take photos was a carpenter, who creates beautiful three-dimensional doorways, panels, and other works.

One of the most interesting locations we stopped at was the wool yard, a location for salvaging wool from old mattresses, pillows, clothing, etc. It appeared to be guarded by an old man and his rooster. Whether the bike was his or not was unclear.

A few women were occupied packing the wool in bags, or sorting and cleaning the wool. Unusual even for men, and certainly for women, the woman in the blue shirt was delighted to talk to us, complain about her life, and make it clear she was looking for a husband!

During our five days in Fes we made a few extended visits to local craft sites.

We visited an area where several weavers were operating looms. We spent some time with one weaver, who explained the basics of his craft. He demonstrated in detail how the loom works.

After displaying some of his finished products, the weaver selected a lovely piece of silk, then persuaded one of our group to serve as a model for a tutorial in how to wear a traditional turban and veil. Everyone was then given a chance to shop for their own adornments.

One day we visited a pottery located outside the medina. We were shown each stage of the process from mixing the clay to final touch-ups. One potter was observed carefully attaching the knob to finish off a food bowl. Painters applied delicate layers of paint to cups, plates, or tagine dishes before they were fired.

One craftsman was creating a mosaic out of small pieces of tile. It's rather like completing a jigsaw puzzle, except it is upside down - the pattern is underneath. When finished, adhesive is applied to the bottom of the mosaic (i.e., the top of the work area) and the whole thing is turned over.

Finally, there was an opportunity to spend a few Moroccan Dirhams and acquire a beautiful tea set or other souvenir.

And, of course, one day we had to listen to a carpet salesman extoll the wonders of his inventory. Fortunately, the building where sales took place was magnificent, a good place to rest for an hour or so and sip mint tea. And some of the carpets being offered were stunning.

From time to time lunch was something to be earned, not ordered. Before eating it was necessary to learn how to fix Moroccan cuisine.

One morning we made an expedition to the local souk (market), a vibrant place to explore. Our mission was to purchase supplies for the upcoming lesson. The purchasing process was supervised by Jamila, an employee of the cooking school. We ended up with a healthy collection of assorted vegetables.

Next came a visit to the poultry provider, who quickly dispatched one of his flock to provide the main course. We stopped then at a condiments stall to obtain ingredients for the mezzes (side dishes).

We took our freshly purchased food to a nearby Riad, a traditional home converted into an elegant guest house. There we were greeted with an offering of mint tea, and invited to feel at home.

Then we settled down to business. We were introduced to the master chef who would direct operations. In groups of two or three, the novices were taught the basics of chopping and mixing. One trainee was assigned the critical task of preparing eggplants. Of course, truly critical steps were actually carried out by the master chef herself.

Then it was time to eat. An appetizing collection of mezzes was laid out, and the master chef served the main course. All those who had been involved in prepararing the lunch took a bow, and we ate. And ate. And ate ...

Rachid and other lecturers who addressed our group often made reference to the role of the Sufi religion in Moroccan culture. Although officially Sufis make up a very small percentage of the population, their open minded and peaceful beliefs have had a broad impact.

It was apt, therefore, that one evening a group of Sufi musicians performed for us. They overwhelmed the audience with their passion and enthusiasm. The fact that the performance was indoors, although normally given out of doors, probably helped.

The leader of the group had a fine singing voice. Other members sang and kept an accompaniment on goat skin drums.

At one point two members of the group traded their drums for trumpets. The effect, of course, was to raise the decibel level, already high, several notches, and enhance one's feeling of total immersion in the music. Later two of the women danced in a kind of mock sword fight.

Traditionally, Sufism has been associated with the whirling dervishes, and a kind of hypnotic trance induced by their music. While often misunderstood by westerners, one function of the music is to induce a trance-like state. And a few members of the audience showed how easy it is to be carried away by music of this kind.

Not far from Fes lies the archeological site of Volubilis, which was an important Roman town near the empire's western border. The Romans occupied a thriving Berber community that had already existed for hundreds of years. Situated on the edge of a fertile plain, it was a perfect location for a town.

A visitor first approaches the center of the town, an imposing collection of public buildings. Tall pillars are all that remain of the Capitoline temple. The basilica was the courthouse and government administration building. Something of a contrast to all this formality is found in the communal toilets and laundry.

Several of the individual houses featured mosaic floors, many of which which are still in good condition. One of the most impressive locations for mosaics is the so-called House of Orpheus.

A little further into the town is the triumphal arch, dedicated to the Roman emperor Caracalla. The arch offers an appropriate background for displaying other ancient ruins.

A sense for the size of the town can be found by tracing the main street, the Decumanus Maximus, which stretches from the triumphal arch, adjacent to the fields, to the Tingis Gate where the hills begin to rise.

Near Volubilis is the town of Moulay Idriss. Its historical importance far outweighs its size. It was here that Moulay Idriss I arrived in 789, bringing with him the religion of Shiism, and starting a new dynasty. Idriss I is often regarded as the founder of Morocco. He is buried in the local mosque, which is a pilgrimage site for many Muslims.

Although non-Muslims are not permitted to enter mosques in Morocco, we admired the mosque's design from the outside. While standing near the entrance we were surprised when two women, who turned out to be Sufi pilgrims, stopped to talk with us and insist that we take a communal photo.

We made a very brief stop in Meknes, another town of considerable historical importance. We paused to admire the magnificent gate, Bab Mansour, built in 1732, and one of the most impressive city gates in Morocco.

Across the street from the gate is the main city square, where hucksters display their performing animals. The square turned out to be a preview of a similar location in Marrakech, where we spent more time.

One other interesting feature of Meknes is the Sawani Swani, built around 1695 to ensure an adequate water supply for the palace and the town. In the background are the remains of the royal stables and granary, which would house and feed up to 12,000 horses.

The next stop on the tour's itinerary was the city of Marrakech. It was a two day bus ride from Fes, but the ride did offer an opportunity to see more rural parts of the country.

We enjoyed views of the Atlas mountains. We passed a number of villages in the foothills of the mountains, and encountered flocks of sheep grazing beside the road.

We noticed rivers swollen by recent rains. The rivers contrast with the large lake created by the Al Massira Dam. The lake provides irrigation and hydro-electric power for a wide region, but it was evident that the region has been undergoing a long term drought.

On the second day of the bus ride, as we approached Marrakech, we stopped at a souk, the largest rural market in the region. It should have been a very interesting experience, but Rachid's bewildered look suggested there might be problems ahead.

The souk offered an interesting picture of rural life - a fruit stand, and a little further along the vegetable tent. A seller of herbal medicines, equipped with a loud speaker system, was not something one finds in U.S. markets.

Dodging farm traffic, either ancient or more modern, might have been a concern, but it was something we had learned to handle in the Fes medina.

But by this point the problem had become quite obvious. It had indeed rained a lot recently, and the pedestrian and vehicle traffic had turned the ground into a muddy swamp. Rachid obtained a stack of plastic bags and offered them as a possible solution. Soon, though, the effort became more than most members of the group wanted to endure, and we turned around. As we left the souk, we noticed that others had encountered similar problems.

Marrakech is a smaller city than Fes, yet seems to be more affluent and more cosmopolitan. In some areas one can imagine being in Paris, not in North Africa. Streets near the city center are tree lined. Elegant horses and carriages offer rides to visitors. Bougainvillea hangs on the walls.

We stayed for four nights at a suitably elegant Sofitel. The lobby and the swimming pool and garden were adorned with intriguing statues.

While in Marrakech we visited a number of interesting sites. The Menara Gardens are less dramatic as gardens, but more interesting as an example of hydraulic engineering. And the morning we were there they offered a beautiful view of the high range of the Atlas Mountains. Gordon actually went AWOL for a little while to find a geocache, accompanied by one of the tour members who was fascinated by the notion of geocaching.

As gardens, the Majorelle Gardens are more impressive. They are an adjunct to the Yves St Laurent museum, which featured a display of Berber clothing and artifacts. The brilliant blue and yellow color scheme of the museum is carried over into the gardens. The gardens themselves contain a magnificent collection of succulents, with various water features to soften the effect.

Marrakech is known as the "Red City". The explanation is easily seen in the Koutoubia mosque, the largest mosque in Marrakech. It's pink stone captures the dominant color of of the city. The mosque was built in 12th century. Strangely, two almost identical mosques were built next to each other, the second started before the first was finished. The original turned out to be misaligned with respect to Mecca. It was allowed to decay and collapse, and its ruins remain.

The next stop was the Dar Si Said museum, a beautiful setting for a museum that was converted from a 19th century palace. It included display of carpets, Islamic art, and historical artifacts, all presented in a very restful setting. In one room there were two contemporary paintings that give a sense of how Islamic art has changed, but retains its historical roots.

Rainfall for Morocco averages only 13 inches a year - more in some regions, less in others. Compare this with 23" for London, 50" for North Carolina. It is not surprising that the nation is concerned about water. The concern is reflected in the Marrakech water museum.

Displays include dioramas that describe existing water supplies, and models of devices used over the years to retrieve and store water. One of the most interesting is a scale model of a syphoning system using four towers. It was used to transport water from one side of a valley to the other.

One morning we visited the Bahia palace. Built in the late 19th century, it was intended to be the greatest palace of its time. "Bahia" means "brilliance", an apt name when one sees the brilliance of the interior. Some of the best examples are seen in the ceilings of some rooms. Other rooms contain stained glass windows that provide a colorful touch. The palace surrounds a sunny Court of Honor, which gives access to the harem rooms.

Very different from the elegant gardens and palaces is the side of Marrakech seen in the medina. Compared with Fes, navigating the medina is a little easier, though not much. But the modern seems to have had more impact on the traditional than it does in Fes.

The focal point for the medina is the main square, Jemaa El Fna. Here it seems one can find at any time of day belly dancers, snake charmers, or musicians, anxious to provide entertainment - for a tip. One aspiring rock star was using a peacock to impress a bored audience. The peacock seemed equally bored (notice the comments it leaves on the loudspeaker).

Wider alleys leading from Jemaa El Fna made it possible to navigate, and to appreciate the diversity of goods for sale. The cacophony of colors in the medina can be overwhelming: Carpets hanging on a wall, for example, or an array of spices.

The ubiquitous presence of mobile phones reminds us that we have not left the 21st century, as does the heavy traffic that can be encountered at any time. Modern and ancient: Fancy bikes and ancient hand-carts can be equally problematic in narrow alleys.

Any commercial transaction in the medina necessarily requires some serious bargaining. Here JoAnn's hard-nosed negotiation style seemed to have confused the shop owners.

The best way to understand the medina is to wander alone, unguided, and allow the character of the medina to reveal itself. On the last day in Marrakech, Gordon summoned up the courage to explore alone. Wandering along a street, he noticed a mysterious dark entryway that led to an alley. Choice points arise every few yards, and there are no known landmarks visible. One has to rely on a general sense of direction. The reward is a succession of intriguing sights: An imposing doorway, with no indication of what lies behind it. Fascinating shops. And finally, emerging somewhat dazzled in a street one recognizes.

Berbers (more properly called Imazighen, singular Amazigh) are believed to be the original inhabitants of Northwest Africa, dating from around 8000 BC. They still make up a large part of the Moroccan population. A study of the Amazigh history and culture is critical to an understanding of Morocco.

One day we took a trip to Aghmat, an archeological site 30 kilometers from Marrakech. It was an important Amazigh town during the middle ages. The site lies in the foothills of the Atlas mountains, and as we got closer we had a good view of some of the more dramatic peaks of the Atlas.

Aghmat was the chief commercial and cultural center in the region. The Almoravid dynasty established Aghmat as their capital city in the 11th century, but after a few years they built a new capital city from scratch, the city of Marrakech. Aghmat was largely abandoned, although it was used as a convenient place to exile people the regime did not like.

Extensive exploration of the area has been carried out recently, and excavations have helped to clarify the history of Aghmat. At times when work is not in progress, the area is monitored by the custodian, Omar, helped by his canine assistant.

The best preserved building is the hamam. Omar and Rachid explained its layout and function. It was evident that this 11th century bath house was based on designs developed a thousand years earlier by the Romans.

Outside the hamam, excavations are gradually revealing details of the main buildings, the mosque, the house of the Imam, and the Amoravid palace.

This was another day when lunch had to be earned. After touring the excavations, we moved to the adjacent town of Ghmat. We were taken to a cooperative building where local women learn traditional cooking skills. This was to be our second cooking lesson for the tour.

Upon our arrival we were greeted by group of local musicians playing traditional songs. We were offered a lesson in brewing and serving mint tea, which was served with a selection of local pastries. Then the cooking lesson proper began.

The topic for the lesson was couscous, a pasta dish made from semolina. Water is used to bind two different sizes of the husked and crushed semolina, and the skill lies in creating an effective blend. The mixture is filtered through two sieves.

When a trainee had completed the task, the instructor carried out an evaluation. The entire operation was monitored by a young spectator, who at one point felt impelled to consult with the instructor.

Of course, there was not enough time left to cook that day's couscous for our lunch, so we moved on to a previously prepared pan. With vegetables added, this was served as an excellent lunch.

The group that welcomed us to Ghmat continued to play during our visit. While not as sophisticated, and not as overwhelming as the Sufi group we had heard in Fes, their enthusiasm was infectious. It was not long before the women from the cooperative started to clap and dance. Eventually, with a little encouragement, they persuaded members of the tour group to join in.

The youngster who had watched the cooking lesson so intently also listened raptly to the music. Later, when the musicians moved outside, she was joined by a friend and the two watched from the roof of the building.

There are rural parts of Morocco where the most common form of transportation is the donkey or the camel, and motor vehicles are rare. In cities, there are often too many. Bicycles or small motorcycles are a common compromise.

On the highways it is not uncommon for ancient, modern, and compromise modes of transportation to mix, and one wonders how often the coexistence is problematic. The rate of traffic accidents in Morocco is high, so there is reason to worry.

Certain forms of animal transportation are not uncommon in the cities, especially in the medinas, of course. Here donkeys are essential for carrying goods through the alleys. And for visitors to the medina they are unavoidable. Interestingly, horses in the medinas are rare, and when seen they often seem to be in poor condition.

On our tour we encountered few camels, the other traditional beast of burden. In towns they seem to be employed mostly as a tourist attraction. Near Meknes, we had a chance to admire from the bus a pen full of camels. It was not clear what they were used for. But the group did include this mother and her baby.

On the way to Aghmat we passed a group of travelers who were riding camels. As a way to see the countryside, it looked much more romantic than our bus, but rather less comfortable.

Our last night on the tour was spent in Casablanca. We were not there long enough to see much of the city. The bus ride into the city, after offering us a brief glimpse of the Atlantic Ocean, took us along the sea front to Casablanca's major tourist attraction, the Hassan II mosque.

We had just a few minutes to view the mosque and some of its adjacent structures from the outside. Although a solemn religious site, we were interested to note that the courtyard serves also as a playground for youngsters.

We then drove to the hotel past what many people associate most strongly with Casablanca, Rick's Cafe. This is a recreation of the iconic location in the movie featuring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman.

The next day, after Gordon had found one more geocache, we left for our next vacation, a few days in Portugal.

Morocco is overwhelmingly an Islamic country. In the West, Islam is too often associated with terror and violence, yet in principle it is a religion of peace. In Morocco that principle is taken seriously. Religion is seen as a personal matter, not a cause for conflict. Undoubtedly, the Sufi emphasis on brotherhood, and the openness of Amazigh people like those whom we met in Gmat, have had a strong influence nationwide.

This tolerance and openness has been promoted in recent years by the government, and by King Mohammed VI. For example, there have been serious efforts to improve the status of women and religious minorities.

Morocco is still a male dominated society, but the role of women is improving. Divorce is easier, rape is now criminalized, and education is required for girls. While older women may still conform to traditional standards of clothing, Western styles are just as common among young women as among young men.

As Morocco struggled to break away from the French after the 1970s, there was a growing emphasis on Arabization. Unfortunately, this encouraged an extremist political agenda in the Islamic religion.

When the consequences of this shift became apparent there was a strong counter reaction. Mohammed VI's father, Hassan II, decreed that "Preaching must not be political". Since the king has final word on matters of religion, Hassan and his son Mohammed have been in a position to enforce this rule.

As we know, political climates can change suddenly. Relying on the good intentions of the king is not the most the stable foundation for an open society. But for now there is every reason to be optimistic.

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